Abstract:

The shift towards natural dyeing methods is gaining increasing interest due to environmental concerns over the alarming impacts of chemical dyeing. The textile industry is responsible for a significant share of water pollution, with approximately 20% of global wastewater coming from textile dyeing and processing. Exploring the benefits of natural dyeing over chemical dyeing is essential for creating a more environmentally friendly textile industry. 

In this workshop, participants explored the artisanal process of bogolanfini (bɔ̀gɔlanfini), bɔ̀gɔ, meaning “earth”, “mud”, or “clay”; lan, meaning “with” or “by means of”; and fini, meaning “cloth” dyeing. Commonly translated as “mud cloth”, bogolan (bɔ̀gɔlan) refers to slip clay with a high iron content, which renders the colour black. Another aspect of the workshop was the extraction of the indigo blue pigment from the plant species Indigofera tinctoria using various extraction techniques, ranging from maceration, infusion, and fermentation, as it is practised in Mali and other parts of West Africa.

This workshop was conducted by HAB partner and Malian artisan Idrissa "Badri" Dembele, who also took part and shared his craft in the 2024 Indigo as Pedagogy field school. Participants listened to Idrissa as he walked through each of the steps in the various dyeing processes, and each participant had the chance to try each stage and create their own bogolon and indigo designs to take home with them. 

Natural Dyes Workshop for Eco-Friendly Fashion occurred simultaneously and in conversation with the Trans-Humance - Knowledge in Circulation leather dyeing workshop. 

Workshop Conductor:

• Idrissa "Badri" Dembele, Independent Artisan ("Our Home" Bogolon Shop), Bamako, Mali